Discovering Scheurebe
While Germany's Riesling and Pinot Noir garner international acclaim, other varieties, like Scheurebe, are just as deserving of attention.
Originating in Alzey, Mosel in 1916, this grape is prized for its aromatic intensity—offering floral, lime, peach, and tropical notes. It's highly versatile, performing well in dry, off-dry, and sweet styles, including ice wine. Notably, Scheurebe flourishes across varied climates, from Baden's warmth to Saale-Unstrut's cooler regions, making it an ideal candidate for wine lovers seeking something easy to drink, yet distinct.
The Mittelrhein region, Germany's smallest with only 460 hectares of vineyards, is a prime example. Despite its exclusivity, limited distribution keeps Mittelrhein wines largely unknown outside the region.
Stretching from Bingen to Bonn, Mittelrhein's vineyards are manually cultivated on steep slopes, a challenging terrain that yields wines with unique intensity and character. Highlights include the Bopparder Hamm, a continuous stretch of vineyards, and Bacharach, a historic town with winemakers honoring Roman wine traditions. The region's UNESCO World Heritage status underscores its cultural and viticultural importance.
Controversial History
Dr. Georg Scheu (1879-1949) succeeded in breeding the variety during the First World War in 1916, leaving a riddle in its origins. The fruit-driven variety grew in popularity and was named "Dr.-Wagner-Rebe".
After the fall of Nazi Germany in 1945, the Germans refused to associate the variety with a Nazi politician, Dr. Richard Wagner, Provincial Farmers' Leader of Hesse-Nassau. They renamed it to "Sämling 88," It wasn't until the 1950s, after the death of its original patron, Dr. Scheu, that it was renamed after him.
Until 2012, it was thought that the crossing was between Riesling and Silvaner. However, a recent DNA analysis identified Bukettrebe as the parent, making it a cross between Riesling and Bukettrebe.
Similarity with Riesling
Scheurebe's appeal lies in its fresh, fruit-driven profile. Like Riesling, it is incredibly versatile, but it offers a unique delicacy that doesn't demand aging. Its accessible, fruit-forward character, often at a lower alcohol content of 10-11.5%, makes it an attractive alternative to traditional sweet or sparkling wines, and sometimes even ice wines. Some producers even craft semi-sparkling, off-dry Scheurebe with subtle sweetness—a style gaining traction for its broad appeal.
Sommeliers interested in expanding their German wine selections should consider Weiler-Fendel's dry Scheurebe, which showcases a rich, full-bodied style with cassis and tropical fruit nuances balanced by bright acidity.
Baer Winery in Bacharach offers a side-by-side tasting experience of Scheurebe and Riesling, highlighting the Scheurebe's layered fruit profile against the Riesling's mineral-driven acidity. Both wines provide a nuanced, complex tasting experience that challenges the straightforward character associated with German wines.
Local, not Global
Beyond Germany, Scheurebe has found a home in Austria and Switzerland, where it's often referred to as "Schöntraube", the “beautiful grape.” While not as widely planted as in its native country, Scheurebe thrives in these regions, producing wines with similar aromatic complexities. Austrian and Swiss Scheurebe may offer distinct regional characteristics but always remain fruit-driven.
Peter Douglas
