Chardonnay, Beyond Oak and Butter
Single vineyards, also known as Premier or Grand Cru, mark the pinnacle of the quality system. (Photo: snowgonzales/stock.adobe.com)
Chardonnay is one of the most popular and versatile white grape varieties in the world. It spans a spectrum from traditional oak-aged expressions to creamy, silky styles, from high-end sparkling wines to pure delight. Occasionally, one may also encounter a sweet style of Chardonnay.
Its roots
Originating from Eastern France, Burgundy, this grape variety is now cultivated globally, from New Zealand to England, and even in the United States, China, and South Africa. Germany, too, has been producing high-end expressions. Climate change has had a positive impact on the cultivation of Chardonnay.
Scientists suggest that Chardonnay is a natural crossing between Pinot Noir and Gouais blanc. They believe that the ancient Romans brought Gouais blanc to France from Croatia, where it was cultivated by local peasants. Since Pinot Noir was reserved for the nobility, the proximity of these vines led to their natural hybridization. Eventually, Chardonnay also became prized by the nobles, relegating the peasants to cultivate the then lesser variety, Aligoté.
A Chameleon Variety
Chardonnay is highly adaptable to a wide range of climates. It is generally considered a neutral variety, highlighting the influences of the terroir and winemaking techniques applied.
In Australia, it can produce overt and higher alcohol, full-bodied wines with aromas of pineapple and peach. Oak aging can produce a well-balanced, integrated full-bodied wine. Conversely, employing the same winemaking techniques without oak leads to a more restrained flavor profile with lower intensity. The alcohol and levels of residual sugar further contributes to its body and texture.
Chardonnay's acidity can vary widely, offering a spectrum of styles. Some wine tasters describe Chardonnay as 'buttery' or 'silky,' achieved through a technique known as malolactic conversion or fermentation (MLF).
Unlike traditional primary fermentation with yeasts, MLF involves lactic acid bacteria converting sharp malic acid into softer lactic acid. This natural process is often intentionally prevented by winemakers aiming to preserve a crisper acidity. The buttery sensation adds texture and weight, enhancing complexity and sometimes the perceived quality of the wine.
Alternatively, winemakers may pursue a neutral expression of creamy sensations. They harvest ripe and healthy grapes, followed by direct pressing without skin contact, resulting in a more fruit-driven profile without delicate phenols. This juice undergoes controlled fermentation with minimal oxygen exposure, retaining its neutral flavors of green apple, pear and citrus notes.
In pursuit of a more voluptuous expression, winemakers may mature Chardonnay in new American or French oak, imparting high vanilla aromatics that contribute to a fuller body. To further enhance this style, they might also age the wine on its fine lees and employ batonnage, stirring the lees to develop a richer mouthfeel and luxurious texture. Few grape varieties worldwide can replicate this elegant nuance.
Into Bubbles
Chardonnay also plays a key role in the production of sparkling wines like Champagne, Franciacorta, or Sekt. Its neutrality allows for potentially high yields and achieves ripeness while maintaining high acidity. Some winemakers promote malolactic fermentation (MLF) for their sparkling wines, adding to the fuller body desired in these styles. In sparkling wine blends, Pinot Noir provides backbone and body, Meunier contributes fruit character, and Chardonnay lends elegance and longevity.
Due to its ability to amplify winemaking techniques, Chardonnay also highlights elegant, integrated notes of brioche and toast through lees maturation, known as autolysis.
Hardly any grape variety is as versatile as Chardonnay. Here are some suggestions:
Peter Douglas
