Burgundy 2023 En Primeur: A Bountiful Vintage with Hidden Gems
January and February are usually the best time for Burgundy en primeur. In early 2025, the focus will be on the new 2023 vintage.
In the previous year, the plentiful harvests of 2022 and 2023 brought joy to farmers. However, the reduced 2024 yield, political instability in France, and impending US tariffs have raised worries—particularly regarding cash flow and the pricing strategy for the 2023 product launches.
We've had candid conversations with our partner estates and cherry-picked some wine experts' recommendations. Before we delve into those details, let's take a closer look at the 2023 growing season and the wines themselves.
The 2023 Vintage: Balanced, Voluminous, and Surprising
1. A Vintage for Both Reds and Whites
The 2023 Burgundy vintage has quickly earned a reputation for striking a fine balance between Pinot Noir and Chardonnay—something that hasn't always been the case in recent years.
While whites still command attention, reds show equal promise this time around. If you're a Pinot fan, don't sleep on 2023!
2. Weather Rollercoaster Leads to Abundant Yields
From a mild winter to temperature swings in mid-summer—and finally a warm, sunny finish in September—2023's weather was all over the place. But here's the good news: these changing conditions actually helped the grapes ripen fully without sacrificing acidity. Compared to leaner harvests like 2020, 2023 saw plenty of juice in the grapes, which translates to richer, more expressive wines in the bottle.
3. Crisp Whites with a Refined Character
Chardonnay shines in this vintage, boasting a crisp minerality and vibrant acidity that wine lovers have come to associate with top-notch Burgundy whites. Higher-elevation vineyards, in particular, benefited from cooler nights and maintained a refreshing edge, turning out bottles that are ideal for sipping now or aging a bit longer.
4. Fresh and Approachable Reds
On the Pinot Noir side, producers are praising the freshness and approachability of 2023 wines. Thanks to well-timed harvests, most Pinot's avoided dilution and ended up showcasing pure, precise fruit flavors. Expect reds that drink beautifully in the near term—no need for years of cellaring unless you want to see how these complex flavors evolve.
5. Why 2023 Stands Out
Quantity isn't the only talking point here—quality is just as impressive. Growers describe the wines as both fleshy and bright, echoing some of the best traits of previous standout years. For anyone exploring Burgundy wine—especially those looking for a sweet spot of value and quality—2023's strong, versatile performance makes it a vintage to watch (and taste) closely.
Market Context: Shifting Prices and Opportunities
When it comes to Burgundy 2023, the elephant in the room is pricing—especially after several strong vintages like 2022, 2020, 2019, and 2018. Even if collectors aren't strictly needing more Burgundy, many want these new releases in their cellars, provided the price is fair. But there's no denying that the region's top wines have become “special occasion” purchases.
Pressures Shaping Prices
Vineyard and Production Costs
Rising land values, high inheritance taxes, and elevated négociant grape prices all put upward pressure on release prices. Surprisingly, it can now be more expensive to produce a négociant wine than one from domaine-owned vines, pushing domain pricing higher to keep things in balance.
Keeping Up Appearances
For some producers, it's also about not undercutting their neighbors. If the domain next door is backed by deep pockets and sets hefty prices, others often follow suit, reminiscent of what we've seen in Bordeaux over the years.
Encouraging Signs
Despite these challenges, many estates have held their 2022 release prices steady in 2023, and a few have even lowered them—a move that should be applauded rather than taken as a sign of an inferior vintage (which 2023 is not). The reality is that growers want people to actually open and enjoy these wines, rather than treat them as mere collectibles.
Looking Ahead
A key reason prices haven't dropped across the board could be the smaller 2024 vintage waiting in the wings. Still, as a buyer, that may not matter. If you're looking for top-tier Burgundy this year, the 2023 vintage does offer some exciting highs in terms of quality. A little homework goes a long way: read up on tasting notes, lean on the advice of trusted merchants, and in areas where quality and price align, it's a great time to buy with confidence.
Wine Experts' Recommendations
What Experts Are Saying
Many are calling the 2023 vintage a “heterogeneous” year, meaning there's a fair amount of variation between producers. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but it does mean doing a little homework—or trusting the recommendations of wine merchants and critics—before making a purchase. If you choose wisely, you'll find some truly outstanding bottles.
Wine Experts' Recommendations
A New Look at Grand Crus
The Domaine Laroche Chablis Les Blanchots Grand Cru 2022 is one of the “sunniest vintages on record,” possibly the best in the last decade. Climate change has brought extreme weather to Chablis, shaking up the Grand Cru hierarchy. Rather than the famous Les Clos, Marine believes Les Blanchots now has the edge. Its unique soil—white clay over Kimmeridgian limestone with ammonites—combined with a southeast-facing exposure, allows for slow ripening and remarkable aromatic development.
Classic Burgundy Red: Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Les Corbeaux’
Winemaker Jane Eyre has run a négociant operation since 2011, producing exceptional, site-specific wines. Her Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Les Corbeaux' comes from vines over 50 years old, situated right next to Grand Cru Mazis-Chambertin. Expect aromas of violets and mulberry, racy acidity, savory tannins, and structured red berry flavors, all culminating in a beautifully balanced Pinot Noir.
The Rising Star: Pierre-Olivier Garcia
Founded in 2016, Pierre-Olivier Garcia's domaine in Nuits-Saint-Georges focuses on reviving biodiversity through cereal planting, trees, and even chickens roaming the vines. In addition to his own 0.4-hectare plot, he sources grapes from like-minded growers. His Brouilly La Folie (from pink granite soils in Beaujolais) spends 10 months in oak, lending a spicy depth to its lively red fruit profile—a fresh, modern take on a classic cru.
Why Burgundy 2023 Might Be Worth Your Attention
For wine lovers in their late twenties or early thirties—especially those just starting to explore fine wines—the 2023 Burgundy En Primeur campaign offers an approachable entry point. The vintage brings together:
Abundant Supply: More wines than usual on the market, potentially at more comfortable price points.
Variety in Quality: Whites are particularly strong, but the reds also show promise when sourced from reputable producers.
Market Opportunity: With prices down and a big vintage now available, it’s a good time to experiment with Burgundy.
In short, the 2023 vintage is shaping up to be a friendly gateway into the world of Burgundy. If you've been waiting for a chance to explore this iconic region—or even just to treat yourself to a special bottle—this could be the year to dive in. Cheers to discovering something new in your glass!
Krystal Wen
